Five things Marrakech taught me about travel

I’ve had the privilege of taking hundreds of trips to 79 (and counting!) countries and territories around the world, and my favourite place is always the next one on my list. Yet despite my love of new adventures, Morocco remains one of a handful of countries that I love returning to again and again. For me, Marrakech in particular is the perfect exotic getaway. It’s a short flight from my base in London and quite affordable compared to many long-haul destinations, and yet it feels worlds away from my normal life.

From navigating the labyrinth of the medina’s shops and eateries, soaking in a hammam, or hiking in the mountains, there’s something for everyone.  Marrakech can also be overwhelming, especially for first-time travellers. So, here are five things I’ve learned about travel to Marrakech that have not only made our Marrakech trips special but changed the way I travel in general.

Living like a queen in a riad

Marrakech has some fantastic hotels, but on our first visit a friend recommended that we opt for a riad inside the walled city centre instead. I’m so glad we did! While hotels are fab, the traditional guest houses in the medina add so much to the cultural experience. Not only are riads bursting with local charm, but these former homes of affluent locals give an aire of luxury, and many do so without the luxury price tag. Each riad is unique, and each one I have stayed in has felt authentic and palatial.

The quintessential feature of a riad is its central courtyard which is usually adorned with a fountain or pool and lush greenery. In fact the Arabic word ryad means garden, and it provides a lovely oasis from the heat and bustle of the city outside with a chance to soak up the local architecture and charm of a family-run business. Some riads will also prepare traditional home-cooked meals, and these have been highlights of my trips!

Often in a hotel you could be anywhere in the world, but in a riad you know you’re in Marrakech. Today when I travel other places, I now look to see if there is somewhere I could stay that will add to the local experience instead of just being a nice hotel. When I find one, I also make sure to make time to enjoy it!

Getting lost in the a-maze-ing Medina

The ‘old town’ areas of many ancient cities are full of tiny winding alleyways and hidden gems, but the Marrakech medina takes that to another level. My first visit to Marrakech was in the ‘pre-smart phone’ era and we got lost, more than once! I was with my husband who has a fantastic sense of direction and yet even he was turned around a few times. Honestly, it was unnerving at first, but that experience also taught me the joy of aimless wandering. We stumbled upon some hidden gems and I noticed so much more than I normally do. Today when my smart phone can guide me pretty much anywhere I still enjoy turning if off and exploring the streets of whatever city I’m in, at least for a little while!

If you are truly lost in the Marrakech medina, be wary of helpful locals offering to guide you — It’s likely a scam. Situations like this have also taught me the value of investing in a local SIM for my phone so that I can access data when needed. I cannot recommend this enough, especially when travelling to more exotic locations. This will also allow you to drop a pin when you find a souk stall or place that you want to be able to find again. It’s been a godsend for me!

There’s so much to explore in the medina, from the bustling souk to scents and flavours of the local cuisine to the nighttime buzz of Jemma el-Fnaa square. It’s fantastic! It can also be a sensory overload, and one way to help get your bearings is to book a tour at the start of your stay. But I wouldn’t want to miss out on the aimless wandering!

Rocking the Kasbah

Another fantastic highlight of trips to Marrakech for me has been the chance to escape the city and explore the Atlas Mountains and desert. On our first trip we did a full day excursion including a scenic drive with stops at a local market and a lovely lunch. I loved it, and if a day in the mountains is all you have, I’d take it!

But, on our second trip we opted to stay at a kasbah for a few days, and the experience was even better. We took camel rides, went on long mountain hikes, explored local Berber villages and had the chance to breathe in a stunning environment that made for a lovely balance to Marrakech. The word ‘kasbah’ is derived from the Arabic word for fortress or citadel. They’re perched on the mountain, usually near a water source, and offer spectacular views. Ours (Kasbah Angour) also had a lovely pool and yummy local menus. I left truly refreshed.

Some of my fave memories are from excursions like this one. Travelling ancient routes and seeing life outside of the city deepens the experience so much for me. Today when I take city breaks around the world, I try to schedule at least one day outside of the city. It’s amazing how different the culture and environment can be just a short distance away.   

Holiday vibes at Eid

One consideration for travel is when to go. We’ve travelled in North Africa during Ramadan before and while I found it culturally enriching, it was also challenging with many daytime activities closed or limited and the need to avoid public eating and drinking during the day to show respect for the local culture.

However, our trip to Marrakech during Eid Al Adha was one of my favourites. It’s a shorter holiday so less restrictive, and the atmosphere is one of festivities and feasting (versus fasting). Eid is more than just food – it’s a celebration of community, faith and charity. Families and neighbours come together to share traditional meals with each other and those less fortunate, and to remember the story of Abraham’s willingness to sacrifice his son.

Like Ramadan, it’s a slower pace than the non-holiday times and some things are closed (especially on the first day) so that’s something to consider. It’s also probably not for non-meat eaters as there were sheep everywhere waiting to become the family meal in the run up to the festivities and the smell of burning during and after. For me, experiencing a part of this traditional time was a definite plus. (BTW, If this isn’t for you, be sure to check the dates of holidays like Eid as they change every year.)

Eternal wanderlust

On my third trip to Marrakech I was joined by my sister-in-law who was there for the first time, and it was brilliant to see the wonder of the city through her ‘newcomer’ eyes. Of course it helped that she’s adventurous and eternally positive in any environment, but watching her reactions was a great reminder of how amazing it is to try new things – and an even greater reminder that much of our enjoyment is simply in our own perspective. In fact, today I try to keep that same sense of eternal wanderlust even in my home city of London.

As for Marrakech, it’s a great place for those new to more exotic travel. The locals are welcoming and they speak multiple languages — In addition to Moroccan Arabic and French which are spoken everywhere, English is widely spoken in the tourist areas. There are also lots of organised tours to help you navigate and learn about the area. That doesn’t mean that it’s always easy, especially for women — It’s still a different culture and important to respect that. I’d highly recommend ensuring that your dress is conservative with shoulders and knees covered. You can also book a local guide to help you learn about the culture as well as the sites. As JRR Tolken says, ‘the greatest adventure is what lies ahead’ and in a place like Marrakech, there’s literally something new to experience around every corner!

Things to do in Marrakech

Whether you are a first timer or a repeat visitor, it’s a travel myth that you should skip the tourist sites. I mean we are tourists after all! And they’re usually touristy sites because they’re worth the visit, right? That said, for me the best tourist experiences are the things that are the most ‘local’ to ensure you leave feeling you’ve experienced the place you’re visiting. Here are the must-see things to do that for me have met that standard:

  • Seeing the historic sites – three in particular:
    • Ben Youssef Madrasa is the most instagrammable site for good reason. You’ll want to see it!
    • El Badi Palace is a palace in ruins, but climbing the walls for amazing views is worth it.
    • Bahia Palace is the top site/museum and full of history — go early to avoid the crowds.
  • Strolling through a Moroccan garden — Jardin Majorelle is BEAUTIFUL. It’s crowded but the colours are amazing even with crowds. Alternatively, le Jardin Secret isn’t really much of a secret, but it’s far less crowded than Jardin Majorelle and still beautiful.
  • Soaking in a hammam – For a truly Moroccan experience, consider a cleansing ritual at a hammam. There are both public and private bathhouses combining traditional and modern spa experiences. Both are memorable and relaxing. Alternatively, if your riad has a pool you can also relax there for some semi-hammam vibes.
  • Sunset on a rooftop restaurant – I love a good rooftop, and the ones overlooking the medina are fantastic, especially as the sun sets over the red buildings and the night life of Jemma el-Fnaa square ramps up below you. Of course I’ve also loved the peaceful rooftops of our riads, not to mention a rooftop brunch, or just a quick break for mint tea in the shade. It’s the place to be in Marrakech!

Conclusion

Marrakech is an amazing destination, and I hope the things I’ve learned have inspired you to explore this fab city – and beyond!

‘The purpose of life is to live it; to taste experience to the utmost’ ~ Eleanor Roosevelt